If you think that the spectacular South Of France is limited to the likes of celebrities and the super rich, then for the most part, you would be right. Hotels are expensive and even hostel dorms don’t go for less than 30 Euro a night.
Fortunately, there is a way to enjoy all that the South Of France has to offer even if you’re not loaded. In fact, if you’re up for it, not only can it be free, but if you’re over 25, you might even get paid 500 Euro a month to live there.
This Runaway Retreat is Antibes, France.
Accommodation
If you enjoy camping, you are going to love this campsite. The squat is located in the moat along the walking path at the far end of the Fort Carre. Here you can pitch your tent, start a camp fire, and go to bathroom in the relative privacy of the tall grass. There are showers on the beach just a 5 minute walk away where you can get clean and fill up your water bottles. While in the past this squat used to be inhabited by a group of international homeless people, they have since moved on. Now this retreat relatively private and safe. However, there still is a good chance some homeless will drunkenly wandering in on occasion.
The Food
The cheapest way to eat is by going to the local social service facility known as Le Cass. Here you can take a hot shower, and chow down on free cheese, baguettes, and croissants. For dinner, the local church often invites the homeless for a delicious French onion soup served with bread and wine.
Things To Do
The beach is the best aspect of this retreat. It is perfect for swimming and enjoying the sunsets. Other things to help pass the time include playing boche ball with the old men in the park, hanging out with the other homeless kids (mostly polish these days), walking the docks and admiring the huge luxury yachts, and exploring the back alleys of the town.
Make Money
Another very appealing aspect of this retreat is the ability to make and save a considerable amount of money. The first and easiest way to make money is by applying as a homeless person at Le Cass. However, you must be over 25, present a good reason as to why you can’t return to your home country, and have been living in Antibes for at least a few months. If you are accepted, you will be issued a bank card that is refilled monthly with 500 Euro.
The second way you can make money is by getting hit by cars. I highly don’t recommend this method. It is a scam, very dangerous, and is terrible for your health and Karma. Since French driving laws are incredibly strict, hitting someone will often result in a hefty fine or a loss of license. So, if you are hit by a very fancy car, and pretend to be injured, the driver will almost always shell out anywhere between 500 and 1000 Euro in order to avoid going to court. Needless to say, this is not a smart idea!
The final and most promising way to make money is by offering to clean boats. With so many massive private yachts, there is always a need for labor. The work generally consists of cleaning and polishing, but if you know how to varnish and paint you can get paid considerably more. Pay averages at around 15 Euro. For more info on how to get day work or even a permanent position on a luxury yacht, check out How To Work On A Luxury Yacht.
How To Get There
From North America, flights from JFK to London or Paris tend to run at around 400$ one way. If you fly into London, you can usually find a cheap, 20 to 40$, flight to Nice, Cannes, or Marseille. From Paris you may also be able to find a budget airline flight south. If not, you can take a 3 hour ride on the TGV directly to Nice for 88 Euro. For more help on finding cheap flights, check out How To Fly For Cheap. From Nice, you then take a 10 minutes train ride west to Antibes. From the station, walk down to the port and then take a left towards the fort. Enter the walkway of the fort and walk to the furthest side. There you will see the entrance to the moat where you can set up camp.
Conclusion
This Runaway Retreat is for the very broke backpacker or “aspiring homeless person”. Although it is a good place to hangout, practice your French, and save some money, if you’re not careful, you may get stuck there for life. So be sure not to get too friendly with the drunken homeless people and have a plan to move on at some point.
Good luck and safe travels,
Leif
hello I’ve been thinking about doing something like this for a couple years now
I live in Canada and I would like to know if this tent city is still going and if that $500. Cad still going if so please let me know ASAP and where it is 100%
Thanks for the help
Hey Kevin,
Honestly, I’m not sure if the French govt still does this.
But it’s worth a try if you’re up for it :)
Greetings:
I am currently staying near Marseille, and have been in France for the past month. Did you show your passport while applying for the $500 euros/month? Thinking about going to Salvation Army and applying for the $500 euro/month. At the moment, I’m staying with a host. It’s going good. However, at some point I do want to keep traveling south to Montpellier and eventually Cap D’Agde. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, I was actually too young to apply for it. And to be honest I’m not not what all the other guys living at the squat did to get it. On top of that, this was some years ago, so I’m not sure if it’s still going on. Good luck!
hi im 28 years of age from the uk and pretty much stuck in a rut that im failing to get out of .
is doing this really as easy as it seems ?
28 is young brother. It’s as easy as you make it really. If you want to go for it, you gotta leave in a positive state of mind. It’s good to have some money saved up as well. Good luck and don’t hesitate to contact if you need any advice.
hi im considering going here to stay for a few months. Do you need a visa to stay there? I am from the UK
Hey Hollie, you won’t need a visa fortunately. It’s all a part of the Schengen zone.
how long did you stay in antibes ? did you rough it multiple times or did you find cheap indoor space ? also, did you feel the homeless population was a distraction from your goal of traveling on very little instead of living on the streets ?
About 3 months.I camped at the squat the whole time. It was an interesting experience :)
Quick update. Visited Antibes two days ago. Couldn’t find any encampment. I walked all around and even behind the castle along its wall. Just a few homeless North African Arabs who depressed me due to their life circumstances. Like in the movie “Into the Wild” where Supertramp leaves the homeless shelter in LA when he sees what he’s doing is for adventure, not due to bad circumstances. I found Antibes to be very boring. I wouldn’t recommend staying here long term. Nice is OK for about a week and then it too gets old. Has a big city feel to it which I dislike. Also, I think the best way to travel cheap is to come to Europe with some money, stay in cheap hostels or hotels, eat cheap, take the bus/train to move around and not overstay your visa. I think after a few weeks of traveling around Schengen, I will return home to work my minimum wage job and save up and do it all over again. I don’t see the adventure in constantly moving around the globe without a way to support yourself. Finding work under-the-table is not easy. And I’ve traveled this way and am very critical. The only people I seem to meet outside of the hostel/backpacker circuit are literal crusty punk runaways, those suffering from substance abuse problems and those with mental health problems. Not an inspiring community to live and learn from. Also, in hostels I’ve stayed at, I have seen loud drunks get into fights so I recommend an upper end hostel or a very cheap hotel. The handful of young freegans living the runaway street life to show the world that an alternative lifestyle is possible, are supported by their parents, grand parents, savings or settlement finances. They too eventually return to the mainstream society where it’s easier to work, earn, and buy food instead of look for it in garbage cans. I too am an idealist who with each passing day is realizing that as much as capitalism is unfair, there isn’t a better and sustainable alternative for the long term. Roughing it on the streets, stealth camping, dumpster diving and being poor are things I’ve done and is a lifestyle I wouldn’t recommend to my worst enemy. All I have found living this way is depression, hunger and immense loneliness. Please post this so your readers will hear an alternative opinion from somebody who agrees with your politics, but not your methods. I do appreciate your blog though. Thank you.
Hey Sadhu, sorry to hear that. Homeless people tend to move on and squats change. It was a while ago that I was there. Sorry you found Antibes boring, I quite like it though. I have an affinity for yachts and always manage to get some day work on them. Europe definitely is more fun with a bit of money.
Sometimes suffering is good you know. It makes you appreciate the good times even more and it’s the quickest way to learn. But I totally understand where you’re coming from. My book depicts the extent that I suffered and how hard and lonely the streets can be with no money.
As a result I decided to carve my own path supporting my nomadic life style through this blog. Anyways, thanks for commenting, glad you like the blog, and sorry Antibes didn’t work out for you.
Hey there! I love your site. Just found it today and was moved to make my first donation – small but it came from my heart bro! I wanna know you are ok and brightening the lives of others. :-) I am a professional in Hollywood and feel like I need to travel. Dont have much money but have tons and tons of faith so i know it will work out. Just dont know where to start. Saw that south of france is the best place to be homeless. So Im considering that. Would love any expert advice or tips or suggestions
Thanks Jef! I’m glad you find the guide helpful and inspiring. Check your email! :)
is it busy this time of year. is it really that easy just to tip up and pitch a tent. is it safe?
It’s pretty slow still and chilly but come april, things will pick up around the harbor.
And what about other South France destinations like Marseille, Montpellier, Nica, Monako? Are they similar or do you only recommand Antibes?
I know there are homeless communities all along the coast. Monaco probably not. In Nice they put you in a group home if youre under 25 and its probably the same in marseille. Ive only ever lived in Antibes and know it well, so I recommend it.